Distant Views of Snowdonia
North Wales Offers Castles, an Italianate Village, and Sand Dunes
The first-time traveler to Wales needs to know two things: not to refer to the Welsh as English, and not to try pronouncing Welsh words. The former might seem terribly obvious, but it bears reminding.
The guidebooks are filled with charming tidbits. Spend the night in the wrong spot and you could wake up "mad, or a poet." Ill fates, to be sure. The world's longest place name, belonging to a Welsh town, Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerychwyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch, was actually made up by a 19th century humorist. The locals call it Llanfairpwll. This is pronounced thlan vire puth. It's as if the Welsh wanted their language to drive home the point that they're not English. "W"s are pronounced "oo" or "uh" and "F"s sound like "V"s.
Away from populous areas such as Cardiff and Swansea lies the mountainous region of Snowdonia, a national park in north Wales. There, the population of sheep rises quickly. The area is named for the highest mountain in Wales and England, Mt. Snowdon, at 3,560 ft. (1,085 m). The name may be familiar because of Lord Snowdon (Antony Armstrong-Jones), the famous photographer who was married briefly to Princess Margaret and who is an Emmy-Award documentary filmmaker.
Mount Snowdon is the Perfect Setting for Outdoor Sports
The diverse terrain attracts outdoor sportspersons, hikers, rock climbers, mountain bikers, fishermen, and more. A trek on ponies in the hills of Cader Idris or the foothills of Rhinogs is as delightful as it sounds. There are world-class cycling trails through miles of splendid mountain and forest scenery. Before his 1953 climb up the Himalayas, Sir Edmund Hillary and his entire team came to Helyg to train and test equipment.
The train ride up Mt. Snowdon is a popular tourist destination. It may be the best way to get to the top to see the views that Hillary saw. However, the train is cramped and the historic information given over the loudspeaker inaudible. The view of gray slate quarries in the distance really isn't as stunning as what can be seen from the ramparts of various castles in the area.
Visitors to Edward I's Castles Hark Back to Medieval Times
Snowdonia is surrounded by an "iron ring" of castles, namely those built by or for or captured by Edward I during his conquest of Wales in the 13th century. Harlech Castle, a fortress sitting on a rocky outcrop half a mile in from the Irish Sea dominates a quiet town of the same name that has a shopping street. There are dining options such as Cemlyn Tea Shop and the Plas Restaurant, where meals are served over stunning castle views. Off the A496, the Harlech beach has some of the finest dunes in Britain.
Criccieth (CRICK-ee-eth) Castle was one of Edward I's conquests. It's much smaller than Harlech Castle, but has more of a dramatic atmosphere, perched on a cliff that juts over Tremadog Bay. Miles of Welsh coastline can be seen from this windy headland. The surrounding village is mostly residential, and it can be difficult to find an open establishment.
Just a few minutes down the road is the village of Porthmadog (port-MAH-tock). The town is a useful stopping point (with a tourist information office, supernarkets and other shops), but otherwise it hasn't got much to recommend it. Fans of Ricky Gervais (The Office, Extras) may note that his producer and partner-in-crime, the orange-shape headed Karl Pilkington happens to have grown up in Porthmadog.
An Architectural Folly Rises from a Welsh Peninsula
Just two miles from Porthmadog is the village of Portmeirion, designed as a tribute to the Italian village. It was built between 1925 and 1975 by the architect Sir Clough Williams-Ellis. The multi-colored, fanciful bricolage planted in this corner of Wales is a marvel to walk through. There are cottages, shops, and restaurants. The vast grounds contain numerous trails through a forest of huge Coast Redwoods, firs, rhododendrons, Camellia, and more. Around each bend there might be a playground, a magical garden, or a bridge overlooking giant waterlilies.
Portmeirion sits on a peninsula and the beaches around it are glorious, with miles of soft white sand with caves. The village played a starring role as the set of The Prisoner, starring Patrick McGoohan.
Just outside of Portmeirion is the Castell Deudraeth, originally the site of a medieval castle and now a hotel, where a world-class meal and service can be attained.
Finding Accommodations in Snowdonia
Finding a place to stay in the area isn't a problem. There are numerous hotels and private homes to rent. An easy way is to contact owners directly via the Internet. Be aware that the average British accommodations, especially private homes, may be dank or musty. The important thing, of course, is that the beds and bathrooms are clean and everything, such as the microwave oven, washing machine, is in working order.
Note that some proprietors habitually rent only to Britons. Therefore, they may require that visitors bring their own sheets and linen. If you are coming from overseas, this can be a problem. Some may provide the sheets and linen for an additional fee. Shrewsbury, which is north of Oxford, is a good stopping point when traveling to north Wales from London. There is a large ASDA supermarket there selling sheets and linens very cheaply. But beware of proprietors who are unaccustomed to foreign visitors.
Final warning: Welsh gardens may be full of midges, which leave bite marks like those of mosquitoes. So bring bug repellent, especially when traveling with children.
Croeso: Welcome to Wales!
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Harlech Castle, a Medieval Fortress
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Fairies Caught on Camera!
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Portmeirion, an Italianate Village in Wales
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The Dramatic Beach at Portmeirion.
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