Others might picture the distinctive Mediterranean type of pottery sold in most UK national garden centres. Walking through the archway of Portmeirion today is almost as surreal as the Prisoner TV series. Leaving the beautiful countryside of rural North Wales only a few moments before, visitors now find themselves in a village that would sit comfortably on the Italian Riviera.
Architecture of Portmeirion and the Bristol Colonnade
The illusion is strengthened by the buildings and gardens. Mediterranean hues of sea blue, ochre, pink and lemon colourfully clash on a mixture of architecture. The central piazza and fountain pool are surrounded by flower beds, while the whole is encircled by glimpses of towers and Ionic columns. At one end, is ‘The Bristol Colonnade’, rebuilt from the original 1760 colonnade which was damaged by bombs during the war.
There are fascinating little quirks adorning a corner or a wall, such as the unicorn and the dolphin. An oak-painted statue of St Peter stands on the balcony of the 1929 Toll House, eternally welcoming visitors to Battery Square. Embellished with other odd plaques and signs, the Toll House is actually a self-catering cottage.
Sir Bertram Clough Williams-Ellis
It is the quirky nature of Portmeirion that so well describes its creator, Bertram Clough Williams-Ellis (1883-1978). It was a practical yet lavish experiment, for he believed that an area of natural beauty could be built upon without spoiling the surrounding landscape.
Clough inherited Plas Brondanw, Merioneth, in 1908. His love of architecture and landscape design led to the creation of Portmeirion Village when he bought a beautiful but neglected nearby site containing an abandoned hotel. Clough named it Portmeirion, to reflect its coastal location in the county of Merioneth. He planned further buildings in 1925 to which he could attract investors.
Rescued Buildings and Conservation
Concerned with conservation, Clough gradually added to the village throughout his life, rescuing many architectural monuments where possible, such as the Town Hall (Hercules Hall). Formerly Emral, a great house of Wales with a barrel-vaulted plaster ceiling depicting the labours of Hercules, Clough read it was being demolished.
Since neither the National Trust nor the V & A could help, Clough reached the sale just in time and took as much of the house as he could manage. The Town Hall was then constructed to house the ballroom, giving it an unusual mix of architecture like much of the village itself.
At the top of Hercules steps and across from the Town Hall, is an impressive statue of Hercules. The figure was cast around 1863 by William Brodie of Banff, Scotland. Clough saw Hercules in Aberdeen from a picture in Country Life and brought him to Portmeirion on the back of a pick-up truck.
Along another path, there is a huge gilded Buddha sitting serenely in his pagoda. This is the actual Buddha from the Ingrid Bergman film The Inn of the Sixth Happiness, which was filmed near Portmeirion. It seems to fit right in, amongst such general quirkiness.
Accommodation and Amenities
For visitors who want to stay in the village, there are several self-catering cottages and apartments, and two hotels, one being the Victorian Castell Deudraith. The Angel was one of the first cottages in 1926, so named because of the lovely angel sign attached to the front of the distinctively shaped pink and white cottage.
Shops, restaurants and cafés cater for all tastes. There is also a shop devoted to The Prisoner and a good Seconds Shop selling the distinctive Portmeirion pottery which was created by Clough’s daughter and her husband.
Beach and Gardens of Portmeirion
At the southern end of Portmeirion village, a set of steps lead to the wide stretch of deserted beach hugging the Snowdonia coastline. A pleasant walk leads towards the Observatory Tower which has looked out to sea since 1936. It is thought that the Camera Obscura, installed in the tower in 1939, came from a German U-Boat. A colourful, stone statue of Nelson, a gift to Clough, now guards the foot of the tower. At the southernmost point is a folly lighthouse.
For visitors who tire of the surreal quality of the village, there are extensive paths through dramatic woodland with a rich diversity of plants and trees. With a Whispering Ghost Garden and Dog’s Cemetery, people often come for the gardens alone.
Audi-Visual Film of Portmeirion
There is an excellent free audio-visual film about Portmeirion and its amazing creator. It includes a commentary by Sir Clough Williams-Ellis recorded in 1973, five years before he died. It is this which brings the man and his vision to life. Tall and gangly, dressed in tweeds and plus fours, he is shown striding through various parts of the village, hands behind his back. It is not difficult to imagine his ghostly presence still walking up and down the paths and steps today.
Details of accommodation and opening times are available on the Portmeirion Village website. Full information on the architecture and sites in the village are outlined in the Portmeirion Guide Book by Robin Llywelyn.
Portmeirion is in the county of Gwynedd, one of the most attractive areas of North Wales. The lovely seaside town of Criccieth is very near and is well worth a visit.
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