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Cardiff and its CastlesCardiff City's Two Castles Both are a Romantacists Dream
The collaboration between an eccentric architect and the world's richest man produces two glorious follies: Cardiff Castle and Castell Coch.
The Welsh capital of Cardiff has two castles, one at his heart and the other a short drive from the city. At the head of Cardiff’s twin shopping areas and forming the heart of the city is its castle, the beginnings of which can be traced to an original Celtic settlement, parts of the Roman stone structure can be seen on the outer walls, and a Norman mot and bailey presents an impressive sight on entering the castle grounds. The castle belonged to the Bute family who at the beginning of the 19th century started the transformation of sleepy Caerdydd into the world’s biggest coal exporting port. The 3rd Earl, John collaborated with the eminent Victorian architect, and enthusiastic medievalist William Burgess, to complete the castle’s makeover from modest family seat into a luxurious Victorian medieval themed bachelor pad. Walking through Cardiff Castle's gateway the imposing Norman keep is immediately visible on a moated mound. After the English Civil War the castle fell into ruin, but in the late 1700s the first Marques of Bute rescued it. Although, it was his grandson the third Marques and Burgess who shaped the modern castle: depending upon taste you will consider it as outrageous and bogus or brilliant and opulent. By the mid nineteenth century, the third Marquis was one of the world’s wealthiest men, with an annual income of £300,000, much of which he used to re-construct and decorate the castle. The rooms are a riot of styles from medieval England to Arabia, from the Old Testament to the fairytales of Hans Christian Anderson. All of the décor pays intricate attention to even the smallest detail. The Marquis’ bathroom is lined with sixty different types of marble. Climb to the top of the Norman keep look north and search for the second of Bute’s and Burgess’ collaborations - Castell Coch or the Red Castle. Built on the remains of a 13th century fortification this is the second of Cardiff’s castles. It stands on a hillside above the village of Taffs Well, to get there take a bus and in 15 minutes you will be climbing the short hill to the castle. It is worth the effort as the interior is a medievalist dream. It is no wonder that Castell Coch has been the setting for many a movie and TV show that demands a Ruratanian feel. With its round towers, conical roofs, working drawbridge and portcullis Castell Coch was built to resemble a mid-European castle. Entering through the drawbridge one finds oneself in a circular courtyard, with stone steps that lead to the battlements. The view from the ramparts takes in the salmon filled River Taff as it snakes its way from the mining valleys of the Rhondda to the Bristol Channel. From this vantage point much of Cardiff is laid like a 3D living map. The delightful Llandaff village and its ancient cathedral, with the famous Epstein sculpture - Christ in Majesty – dominating its aisle. Cardiff Castle is visible, and just outside its walls the bustle of the city and the Bay area leading your eye to the Bristol Channel and on to the rugged Somerset coast. The Millennium Stadium, Britain’s newest and most advanced sports and entertainment complex is easy to pick out in this compact city. Visit Wales
The copyright of the article Cardiff and its Castles in Wales Travel is owned by John Howe. Permission to republish Cardiff and its Castles in print or online must be granted by the author in writing.
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